Lamoreaux Landing 2005 Chardonay

As I have stated here before, I am not a fan of over oaked chardonnay. That said the chardonnay offering from Lamoreaux Landing was surprisingly approachable. The oak was used in such a judicious manner so as to add to the overall complexity of the wine instead of detracting from it, which is many times the case with oaky chardonnays.

This wine is brimming with a bright lemon acidity that blends well with the vanilla flavors cast off by the oak barrels producing a pronounced lemon cream nose. Aromas of crisp green apple can also be detected along with the lemon cream. This attractive nose leads to a palette that begins with green apple and tropical fruit and finishes with butter and vanilla. These tastes are all tied together nicely with a background of perfectly balanced acidity and complemented by a nice presence of minerality.

The full bodieness of this wine along with its pronounced flavors lends itself to pairing well with more full flavored dishes. It will go well with any meal from pasta to light game or chicken. When paired with a nice bowl of saffron rice and the Lebanese grilled chicken recipe below, this chardonnay was a delight. The recipe is spicy however not to terribly hot and it integrates well with the tropical fruit in the wine. (8.5/FLB)

Lebanese Grilled Chicken

Marinade:

-1 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, trimmed of any fat and cut into cubes
-1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
-1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
-1/2 small onion, grated
-1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cinnamon
-1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom seeds (from about 20 pods)
-1/2 teaspoon dried or fresh thyme leaves
-Salt and freshly ground black pepper
-1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds, optional
-1/2 teaspoon Baharat, recipe follows
-1/4 teaspoon paprika 10 (10-inch) wooden or metal skewers

Baharat:
-3 tsp cup black peppercorns
-3 tsp cup allspice berries
-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
-1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

-Grind the peppercorns and allspice together and blend with the cinnamon and nutmeg. Store the mixture in a jar in your spice rack, away from sunlight. It will lose pungency as time goes by, but, properly stored, it will be good for many months.

-Marinate the chicken cubes in a glass or ceramic bowl or pan with the olive oil, lemon juice, onion, cinnamon, cardamom, thyme, salt, pepper, cumin, if using, Baharat, and paprika for 6 hours, covered, in the refrigerator, turning the cubes occasionally.
-Preheat a gas grill for 15 minutes on high or prepare a hot charcoal fire.
-Skewer the chicken cubes so they touch each other but do not press against each other. If possible, use a skewer rack so the chicken grills without touching the grilling grate.
-Grill until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes, turning frequently. Serve hot.

Standing Stone 2006 Gewurztraminer

Gewurztraminer is one of those grapes that you either love or hate. I happen to be one of those people that loves great spicy Gewurztraminer and luckily for me the Finger Lakes offer many great bottles. Historically speaking Gewurztraminer has found its greatest success in Alsace France, which is why it also excels here in the cool climate of the Finger Lakes. When fully ripened Gewurztraminer tends to have higher levels of sugar, that in turn requires the wine be higher in acidity to achieve balance. This need for a higher level of acidity requires the grapes to be grown in a cooler environment that allows the acidity to remain for a longer period of time.

Standing Stone located on the east side of Seneca Lake is home to some of the oldest vinifera plantings in the Finger Lakes. They currently own much of the Gold Seal vineyards originally planted back in 1972. The age of these vines is a rarity here in an area that has only recently embraced vinifera grapes. Standing Stone is known for making great Gewurztraminer and the 2006 is no exception. This copper colored wine offers attractive notes of lychee, grapefruit and orange on the nose. This medium to full bodied wine delivers a nice compliment of candied ginger and lemon grass carried forward by a core of zest and spice. Though Gewurztraminer makes a great aperitif it is really at home when paired with food. It especially lends itself well to spicy foods. The full- bodiedness of the wine allows it to stand up to a host of bold flavors.
I found that it paired excellently with this recipe for spicy bacon wrapped shrimp.

Grilled Bacon Wrapped Shrimp:

Marinade:
-½ C lemon juice (fresh squeezed)
-¼ C soy sauce
-1 tbsp sesame seed oil
-2 tsp chili oil

-1 lb large shrimp
-½ lb bacon cut in half (not thick cut)
-1 tbsp lemon zest
-sea salt
-freshly ground pepper

-whisk together marinade
-marinade shrimp for 20-30 minutes cover and in the fridge
-make sure to use regular thickness bacon.
-If you use to thick of bacon it will not cook as fast as the shrimp.
-wrap with bacon securing with a toothpick
-sprinkle with lemon zest, salt and pepper
-grill until shrimp just turns pink.
-be careful not to over cook as the shrimp will loose their tenderness

Lamoreaux Landing 2005 Cabernet Franc

Located half way up the east side of Seneca Lake sits Lamoreaux Landing. Within this magnificent Greek revival building you can find a variety of reasonably priced Finger Lakes wine. Anyone planning a trip up Route 414 should make a point to stop by this winery for some great wine and amazing panoramic views of Seneca Lake!

As previously discussed here the 2005 vintage in the Finger Lakes yielded some really great wines, especially reds. Lamoreaux Landing’s vineyard location is ideally situated on Seneca Lake to benefit from the deep warm waters and the predominantly westerly wind.

This dark garnet Cabernet Franc was medium in body with a nose of black currant, licorice and a fleeting hint of olives. The palate is filled with black cherry, vanilla and spice which are nicely accented by a nice background of mineral and oak. (FLB: 7.5/10)

This wine pairs well with grilled chimichurri skirt steak served with yellow rice and steam broccoli.

Chimichurri Marinade:

-2 lbs skirt steak
-1/4 cup (250ml) extra virgin olive oil
-1 Tbsp chopped thyme (Finger Lakes)
-1 Tbsp chopped oregano (Finger Lakes)
-1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley (Finger Lakes)
-1 chipotle chili in adobo sauce, chopped
-1 Tbsp sweet Spanish paprika
-1 Tsp cumin
-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped (Finger Lakes)
-3 Tbsp red wine vinegar
-1 onion (Finger Lakes)
-½ tsp sea salt
-freshly ground black pepper

-assemble marinade
-marinade steak over night in a zip top back
-preheat grill to Hi
-pat dry steak
-season with salt and pepper
-coat grates with oil on a paper towel
- sear on each side until desired internal temperature is reached

McGregor's 2006 Red Wine Barrel Tasting

As always the red wine barrel tasting event at McGregor’s on the east shore of Keuka Lake was excellent. We tasted through 6 offerings from the 2006 vintage. Compared to 2005 the summer of 2006 was cooler and wetter. However, this was off set by a nice fall that allowed the grapes to mature fully. Generally speaking these wines are less extracted and more medium bodied then the ‘05’s. Many of the wines listed below are produced in small numbers so be sure to hunt these gems out early.

2006 Pinot Noir: This varietal continues to show promise when crafted with talented hands. Pinto Noir’s ability to reflect terrior makes it perfectly suited to the slate filled vineyards of the Finger Lakes. This ruby red Pinot Noir opens with a pronounced presence of sour cherry and spice on the nose. The medium body is filled with smooth tannins that leads to a silky finish. A very food friendly Pinot! (FLB: 8.5/10)

2006 Cabernet Franc: A traditional blending grape in Bordeaux, here in the Finger Lakes as well as the Loire Valley it stands very proudly on its own. Due mostly to the early ripening of this varietal it is one of the rising stars. When planted in the best vineyard sites it can truly excel here. The garnet color of this wine leads to a great nose filled with blackberry and smoke. The broad tannins show great structure in the wine and the nice hint of vanilla rounds off the body nicely. (FLB: 7.5/10)

2006 Merlot: This is a varietal along with Cabernet Sauvignon that only really excels in great vintages. This was perhaps my least favorite of the wines we tasted however still a nice effort considering the vintage. Its nose of leather and spice is followed by cherry and very dry tannins. The after taste seemed to lack any dimension, hopefully this will change with some more time in the barrel. (FLB: 6/10)

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon: A very late ripening varietal that really benefits from an extended hang time. The longer it is allowed to develop the more complex and integrated the flavors become. An under rated varietal in the Finger Lakes that can be impressive when judicious vineyard management and quality wine making is combined. This Cabernet Sauvignon has an attractive nose of leather and smoke giving way to a palate of sweet cherry with chocolate becoming more prominent on the long finish. (FLB: 8/10)

2006 Rob Roy Red: A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Unlike traditional Bordeaux blends Cabernet Franc makes up the majority of this blend with its attractive nose of sweet and spice that nicely compliments the blackberry and leather notes on the palate. The smooth dry tannins lead to a nice mouth watering finish.
(FLB: 8.5/10)

2006 Black Russian: A blend of two virtually unheard of varietals, Saperavi and Sereksiya. These two grapes from Eastern Europe combine to create a truly unique wine. The first thing most people notice is the color in the glass that can almost appear to be black. With a nice presence of oak and perfume on the nose the palate exudes plum and blackberry that integrate perfectly with the smooth round tannins. Over all just a great effort that will pair great with venison or roast lamb and will surely age for at least 5-10 years! (FLB 9/10)

Prejean 2006 Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris is quietly making its presence known in the Finger Lakes. From the handful that I have tried from varies producers it seems to suggest that there is a bright future for this varietal here in the Finger Lakes. Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio may seem to be two different wines when compared side by side but the difference is not in the varietal but in style. Pinot Gris from Alsace France tends to be fuller bodied and generally on the sweeter side resulting in great viscosity and a long lasting finish. Pinot Grigio from Italy tend to be more medium bodied, drier and more fruit forward.

Like many of the other varietals that excel in the Finger Lakes Pinot Gris excels in soils rich in slate which in the final wine results in a nice edge of minerality that can carry the fruit forward. Minerality may seem like an elusive term to some but it’s presence is very integral in achieving balance.

This example from Prejean is the first vintage from their estate vineyard that was only planted 4 years ago. It has a very attractive nose of lime, pineapple and mango. The body falls between medium and full exhibiting lime, green apple, pear and wet stone, which results in a nice long slightly dry finish. As the vineyards continue to mature I am sure that future efforts will be even more complex!

This wine would make a great aperitif on its own but it could also be paired with a myriad of dishes. The acidity and minerality really make this a food friend wine. It paired excellently with this appetizer of Lobster Thermidor Dip served with slices of fresh baguette.

Lobster Thermidor Dip

-4 tbsp unsalted butter (Finger Lakes)
-1 shallot, minced (Finger Lakes)
-2 tbsp flour
-2 tbsp dry sherry (Finger Lakes)
-2 tbsp dry white wine (Finger Lakes)
-1 cup chicken stock
-2 cup cooked fresh lobster meat
-2/3 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
-2 tbsp fresh parsley leaves, minced (Finger Lakes)
-1 cup heavy cream
-1 tsp Dijon mustard
-salt and white pepper, to taste
-2 tsp sliced black olives, for garnish

-preheat the broiler.
-melt the butter over medium heat; add the minced shallot and sauté for 1 minute.
-whisk in the flour, then add the sherry, white wine, and chicken stock.
-cook for 4 minutes, stirring constantly.
-stir in the lobster meat, 1/2 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, parsley, cream, and mustard.
-cook for 2 minutes, stirring often.
-taste, and season with salt and white pepper.
-pour the lobster mixture into a shallow baking dish.
-sprinkle the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano over the dip, and broil for 1 minute, or until the cheese is lightly browned.
-garnish with sliced black olives.

Tierce 2005

I am sure by now that many of you are aware of the collaborative efforts of Red Newt, Anthony Road and Fox Run called Tierce. It is a blend of all of their Rieslings from Seneca Lake. The wineries are located at opposite ends and sides of Seneca lake locations allowing the vintners to blend together and accentuate the beauty of each different parcel. Red Newt is located in the “banana belt” of Seneca Lake which has a western exposure and benefits from the predominate westerly winds that come off Seneca Lake bathing the vineyards with warm lake air late into the harvest. This considerable difference in warmth produces more fruit forward Rieslings with a fuller mouth feel then other areas of the Finger Lakes. Anthony Road and Fox run are both located on the Northwest side of Seneca Lake with an eastern exposure. This generally produces wines with higher acidity which when made in a dry style produce great citrus flavor. The one thing both locations share is the razors edge of minerality that run through many of the best Rieslings from the Finger Lakes.

I believe this is the second year of their collaboration and the results are stunning. The two characteristics that stand out to me are citrus and mineral. The nose is one of pronounced lime, orange zest and crushed wet stone. This is a wine where you could almost be satisfied by just smelling the great bouquet. On the palate Lime juice dominates which kept making me think margarita! The combination of citrus and flint really create a zesty after taste that seems to last 30+ seconds.

Overall I am really excited for the future of this collaboration. I hope this is just one of many efforts to create fantastic wine and promote the Finger Lakes at the same time. Who knows maybe they will give another great Finger Lakes varietal such as Gewurztraminer a try.

This paired great with some Scallops I made in a spicy Asian style. The lime overtones complimented the sweetness and brine of the Scallops.

Asian Diver Scallops

-8 sea scallops (preferably Diver)
-2 tbsp Wixson’s orange blossom honey (Finger Lakes)
-2 tbsp soy sauce
-1 tbsp chili oil
-2 tbsp lime juice
-1 tsp course mustard
-sea salt
-fresh ground pepper (preferably Tellicherry)
-toasted white and black sesame seeds

-whisk together all the ingredient except for the sesame seeds-marinate scallops for 30 minutes
-preheat a cast iron skillet or any other heavy bottomed pan
-meanwhile toast the sesame seeds over medium heat for 5-6 minutes, be careful not to burn them
-sear the scallops for 2-3 minutes per side
-the center of the scallops should not be cooked through. This ensure they will be nice and juice
-garnish with sesame seeds and service

McGregors 2006 Rosé

Rosés are making a real splash lately. We are finally overcoming the perception that not all pink wines are sugary white zinfandel. Throughout Provence France Rosè is an extremely popular warm weather wine. The flavors of Rosè can vary dramatically depending on which varietals are used. This Pinot Noir Rose is very delicate and it is an excellent reflection of the Finger Lakes.

The color of this Rosè is a very light salmon pink. One whiff of this one and it leaves no doubt that this is a Pinot Noir Rosè with it pronounced fruit forward nose. The nose is a combination of strawberry, lime and rose petal; I also get a slight hint of yeast (think champagne.) The taste is dominated by strawberry fruit that finishes with a crisp mineral finish.

Pairing this wine can be challenging due to how delicate it is. However I think that it pairs well with these some sautéed heirloom tomatoes.

Heirloom Tomatoes

-2 heirloom tomatoes sliced (Finger Lakes)
-½ tbsp grape seed oil (Finger Lakes)
-1 clove garlic minced (Finger Lakes)
-Sea Salt
-Pepper
-Parmigiano Reggiano
-Extra Virgin Olive Oil
-Basil (Finger Lakes)

Sweet the garlic in the grape seed oil and add the tomato slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Remove once cooked making sure to get all of the juice. Drizzle with a good quality olive oil and top with Parmigiano Reggiano. Garnish with a little basil

Dr Konstantin Frank 2006 Dry Riesling

I feel that this Riesling is a shining example of the quality that is possible here in the Finger Lakes. I think in a word the best way to describe this wine is dimension. By this I mean that the wine has many layers of flavors and develops in the glass over time. Wines of a lesser quality many times will have one dominate flavor and that is all that can be tasted. Wines with dimension are so much more interesting and fun to drink.

Upon your first whiff you are sure that this is a Dry Riesling with its pronounced citrus nose of grapefruit and lemon. Often Dry Riesling will take on more of a citrus nose when compared to semi dry Riesling that often exhibit stone fruit qualities such as peaches or apricots.

My first impression was one of racy acidity which led to tart sour apple and lemon. Eventually that gives way to a very pronounced taste of grapefruit. As it developes in the glass secondary flavors of pear and peach began to emerge. The after taste was one of crisp acidity that was nicely balanced by the strong mineral backbone.

Suggested Recipe:

Farfelle with Chicken Sausage, Grape Tomatoes & Mushrooms

-1 lb farfalle pasta (bow tie)
-1/2 lb grape tomatoes (Finger Lakes)
-1/2 lb crimini mushrooms
-2-3 large cloves of garlic (Finger Lakes)
-l lb chicken sausage
-3-4 tbsp grape seed oil (Finger Lakes)
-2 tbsp fresh chopped parsley (Finger Lakes)
-1/2 cup parmesan cheese
-salt
-pepper

-begin by skewering the grape tomatoes and mushrooms (whole)
-drizzle with grape seed oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper
-grill the chicken sausage, tomatoes and mushrooms
-meanwhile prepare a pot of salted and oiled water for the pasta
-chop the garlic and sweat with the grape seed oil being careful to not allow the garlic to brown (set aside)
-remove everything from the grill.
-slice the mushrooms and chicken sausage
-once the pasta is done add to the garlic and oil mixture
-toss in the tomatoes, mushrooms, sausage, parsley, cheese and sprinkle with salt & pepper
-be sure to reserve some of the parsley for garnishing

Blue Berries Season... Ohh the Possiblities

For about a month each year blue berries are in season in the Finger Lakes. From about Mid July through Mid August there are many places that offer you the opportunity to pick your own blueberries! As far as picking your own fruit this is one of the easier prospects especially when compared to strawberries or raspberries.

In a relatively short period of time you can harvest enough blueberries to last you through the year. They freeze extremely well and afford themselves to an unlimited variety of recipes.

When compared to the usual grocery store variety shipped in from some far of place fresh picked Finger Lakes blue berries are incomparable. If generally you find that you don’t prefer the bland grocery store variety don’t write them off entirely until you try these. I find that these berries have a much thinner skin, less tartness and more sweetness!

We visited the beautiful Sugar Shack Blueberry Farm at 824 E. Swamp Road in Penn Yan. We harvested about 8lbs of blueberries that we subsequently washed and divided into 1 ½ cup increments as this is the amount required for my favorite blueberry muffins. It is always easier to freeze things in smaller increments when it comes time to adapting to different recipes.

Blueberries can be used in a variety of recipes including muffins, cakes, pies, pancakes, cobbler, parfaits and smoothies just to name a few.

So I hope that I have motivated you to take a half hour out of your day to enjoy the wonderful bounty of the Finger Lakes throughout the year.

McGregor Unoaked Chardonnay

I recently tasted the McGregor Unoaked Chardonnay 2006. This style is becoming more popular throughout the Finger Lakes as vintners are becoming more apt at dealing with what could be very high acidity in their wines. Many still employ tons of new oak and malolatic fermentation to grapple with the high amount of acidity. Many times producing bland buttery tasting chardonnays. I personally prefer the unoaked style as it allows the fruit to shine through and the after taste to be much crisper.

This chardonnay is very unique in the nose with pronounced hints of lime, pear and apple that almost lead you to believe that this is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley as apposed to a New Zealand Sauvingon Blanc which are generally much more grassy in the nose as apposed to herbal. The unusually cool weather of 2006 I’m sure had something to do with this. None the less the nose is very attractive. The taste takes a few sips to develop into a very pronounced lemon and sour apple. The body I would say is just about medium leaving you with a very crisp dry finish of building honey dew. Like many of the 06’s I feel that it is the clean mineralilty that carries this wine forward. Over all this wine is quite unique but unquestionably delicious and refreshing.

I paired this wine with fresh fettucini served with a grape tomato sauce and sautéed mushrooms. The acidity and sweetness of the grape tomatoes lent itself well with this Finger Lakes Chardonnay.


Fettuccini w/ Grape Tomatoes Sauce and Sautéed Mushrooms

Fettuccini:
-2 cups King Arthur all purpose flour
-1 cup semolina flour
-3 eggs (Finger Lakes)
-1 tsp kosher salt
-2 tsp olive oil
-2 tbsp water
Note: First I would like to point out that I like to use King Arthur flour when making pasta. For almost every other recipe I use Gold Medal flour but I feel the King Arthur flour give the pasta a much better texture and is worth the extra money.
-Whisk both flours together and turn out onto a clean work surface
-Whisk together the eggs, olive oil, kosher salt and water
-With the flour make a depression in the center with your fist
-With a fork slowly work the egg mixture into the flour (this should take about 10 minutes)
-Once combined knead the dough until it becomes smooth in text
-Allow to rest for a half hour wrapped in plastic wrap to allow the flour to absorb the moisture
-Cut of a small portion of the dough and run it through a pasta machine folding it in half several times and run it through the largest setting 3-4 times. This will knead the dough further resulting in a very smooth textured pasta.
-Run the dough through the machine reducing the size until you reach the second to thinnest setting.
-Allow to dry for 20-30 minutes and then pass it through the fettuccini attachment of the pasta machine.

Grape Tomato Sauce:
-1 pint of grape tomatoes (Finger Lakes)
-2 tbsp olive oil
- Fresh pepper
-heavy pinch of Vignalta Sale Alle Erbe Herbed Salt
- 1 tsp of Italian spices
-2 cloves garlic (Finger Lakes)
-1 shallot (Finger Lakes)
-1/2 cup red wine (Finger Lakes)
Please note that Vignalta Sale Alle Erbe Herbed Salt is sea salt that is mixed with fresh rosemary and thyme from Italy. ( Regular kosher salt will work as well)
-Place the tomatoes in an oven proof pan
-Drizzle with 1 tbsp olive olive
-Sprinkle with pepper salt and spices
-Broil for 10-15 minutes until they blister and burst
-While tomatoes are broiling sweat the garlic and shallot with the remaining olive oil
-Deglaze the pan with the wine
-Add the tomatoes and either smash with a spoon or blend with a stick blender
-Simmer for a few minutes to reduce

Sautéed Mushrooms w/ Red Wine:
-1/2 lb crimini mushrooms
- 1 tbsp olive oil
-1 clove garlic (minced) (Finger Lakes)
-1 shallot (minced) (Finger Lakes)
-1/4 cup red wine (Finger Lakes)
-few dashes of Parisian herbs
-salt and pepper
Note:
Parisian herbs is a mix from Penzeys Spices that includes: chives, dill weed, French basil, French tarragon, chervil and white pepper.
-Sweat garlic and shallots with the olive oil
-Add the mushrooms and
-Add salt, pepper and parisian herbs
-Deglaze with the wine
-Sauté for 6-7 minutes until tender