Ravines winery on the east side of Keuka Lake may be a small winery in comparison to some; however their wines are anything but small. The winery utilizes only vinifera grapes and always produces them in a dry style. Ravines Dry Riesling has been one of my favorites ever since their first bottling. Though it is located on Keuka Lake wine maker Morten Hallegren sources much of his fruit from the shores of Seneca Lake. During my last visit in early December, I noticed that the first steps toward planting an estate vineyard behind their winery are just beginning. According to their website the name Ravines come from two deep ravines located on the north and south side of the vineyard that act a drains for cold air. As cool spring or fall air condenses over the vineyard the coldest air will naturally drain of the property into the ravines, leaving the ambient temperature in the vineyard slightly higher than the surrounding area. This is a great example of a microclimate were local conditions can vary greatly within a very short distance. Sometimes this increase in warmth can stave off a frost in either the spring or fall.
Another point of interest is the history of the winemaker, Morten Hallgren. He was born and educated in France where he worked for Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and eventually moved to the states. Morten worked at several wineries throughout the country before becoming wine maker at the legendary Dr Konstantin Frank winery on the west side of Keuka Lake. Here he was able to hone the skills that eventually lead to the creation of his own winery and the many spectacular wines that have followed.
His Riesling, at only .03% residual sugar, is perhaps the driest I have ever tasted here in the Finger Lakes. The nose is filled with bright notes of lemon peel, pineapple, green apple and just a bit of fresh pear. This seductive nose leads to a very precise and bright palate of lemon, lime and apricot that is perfectly balanced with a striking edge of minerality. The medium body produces an aftertaste that seems to last forever.
The pairing options of this wine are limitless. With such crisp and pronounced flavors this wine pairs well with everything from simple grilled pork tenderloin to a spicy Asian stir fry. I found that it paired well with a traditional German dish of pork and sauerkraut. The recipe is quite simple to make and the ingredients should be easily accessible. The sharpness of the sauerkraut is nicely balanced by the fruitiness of the wine. (9.5/FLB)
Pork Tenderloin with Sauerkraut:
-2 lb pork tenderloin
-2-3 cups sauerkraut
-2 tsp Bavarian spices
-1 cup Riesling
-Salt and pepper
-rub the pork with the Bavarian spices, salt and pepper
-place in a crock pot and cover with sauerkraut and wine
-cook on low for 6-8 hours until tender
-serve with a nice baked potato and some steamed Brussels spouts
