McGregor's 2005 Rob Roy Red

Well, it is February and the wintry weather this year has not been too harsh. When checking on Keuka Lake this past weekend, it appeared that only the very end of the lake is frozen, when normally it would be extending several miles south. This is bad news for the ice fisher man, but great for the vinifera plantings on the surrounding hillsides. Grapes are deciduous plants which require a cool period between growing seasons, but when temperatures plunge in the single digits and below some varietals will die. This can be devastating to wineries, as it can take 3 to 4 years to get the land back in production, not to mention the cost of replanting the vineyards. So let’s hope for more continued mild weather this winter!

The winter is also a great time to visit the wineries. Without the crowds, you will receive more personal attention from the staff and you will be able to take your time as you taste throughout their offerings. Also, the views of the lake from many of the tasting rooms can be quite breath taking with the striking contrast between the snow covered hills and the shimmering black lake.

Keeping with the theme of winter and cold weather, I thought discussing my tasting of McGregor’s 2005 Rob Roy Red would be appropriate. This is a Bordeaux blend made up of two-thirds Cabernet Franc and the remaining one-third is a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Though not a common blending percentage in Bordeaux, it is one that seems very appropriate here in the Finger Lakes. Of the three grapes, Cabernet Franc seems to do the best here so it would make sense that it occupies the largest percentage of the blend. 2005 was a very good year for the Finger Lakes and especially for red wine. The climate was warm and dry providing ideal conditions for red grapes that are only seen in the Finger Lakes every 4 to 5 years.

McGregor’s, located on the east side of Keuka Lake, is consistently one of the leading producers of red wine in the area. I believe all of their red wines are estate grown which is remarkable considering that Keuka Lake generally has less growing days than Seneca Lake. Growing days are much more significant for red vinifera as they generally require longer hang times to fully develop properly.

The Rob Roy Red is very approachable now with surprisingly soft tannins, but also has the potential to age agreeably for 5 to-10 years. The nose is filled with a nice combination of blackberry, black cherry and spice, as well as a prominent aroma of cinnamon. On the palate, this medium to full bodied wine expresses notes of leather and tobacco offset by a nice presences of cherry on the mid- palate.

McGregor’s Rob Roy Red is particularly well suited for fire side sipping, but also pairs well with many rich dishes. I found it complimented the beef pinwheel receipt below, and paired well with twice baked potatoes and a side of wilted spinach.

Beef Pinwheels:

-2 lb flank steak
-1/2 lb provolone cheese
-1/3 lb Prosciutto
-1 bag of spinach
-Salt
-Pepper

-carefully butterfly the flank steak or have your butcher do it.
-pound the flank steak with a meat mallet
-season both sides with salt and pepper
-layer the Prosciutto
-layer the provolone cheese
-lightly sauté the spinach
-spread evenly
-roll flank stake to great a long roll
-secure with skewers every 1 inch
-cut in between skewers to create the pinwheels
-grill or broil until desired doneness


Twice Baked Potatoes:

4 Russet potatoes
1/3 C Prosciutto diced
½ C sour cream
¼ C heavy cream
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 C parmesan cheese
½ C
¼ C scallions
2 tbsp butter
Salt
Pepper

-preheat oven to 400 degrees
-wash and bake potatoes
-allow to cool
-cut in half and scoop out the flesh and retain the skins
-mix the potato with the above ingredients
-place the mixture back into the skins
-bake for 20-25 minutes until heated through

Ravines 2006 Dry Riesling

Ravines winery on the east side of Keuka Lake may be a small winery in comparison to some; however their wines are anything but small. The winery utilizes only vinifera grapes and always produces them in a dry style. Ravines Dry Riesling has been one of my favorites ever since their first bottling. Though it is located on Keuka Lake wine maker Morten Hallegren sources much of his fruit from the shores of Seneca Lake. During my last visit in early December, I noticed that the first steps toward planting an estate vineyard behind their winery are just beginning. According to their website the name Ravines come from two deep ravines located on the north and south side of the vineyard that act a drains for cold air. As cool spring or fall air condenses over the vineyard the coldest air will naturally drain of the property into the ravines, leaving the ambient temperature in the vineyard slightly higher than the surrounding area. This is a great example of a microclimate were local conditions can vary greatly within a very short distance. Sometimes this increase in warmth can stave off a frost in either the spring or fall.

Another point of interest is the history of the winemaker, Morten Hallgren. He was born and educated in France where he worked for Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and eventually moved to the states. Morten worked at several wineries throughout the country before becoming wine maker at the legendary Dr Konstantin Frank winery on the west side of Keuka Lake. Here he was able to hone the skills that eventually lead to the creation of his own winery and the many spectacular wines that have followed.

His Riesling, at only .03% residual sugar, is perhaps the driest I have ever tasted here in the Finger Lakes. The nose is filled with bright notes of lemon peel, pineapple, green apple and just a bit of fresh pear. This seductive nose leads to a very precise and bright palate of lemon, lime and apricot that is perfectly balanced with a striking edge of minerality. The medium body produces an aftertaste that seems to last forever.

The pairing options of this wine are limitless. With such crisp and pronounced flavors this wine pairs well with everything from simple grilled pork tenderloin to a spicy Asian stir fry. I found that it paired well with a traditional German dish of pork and sauerkraut. The recipe is quite simple to make and the ingredients should be easily accessible. The sharpness of the sauerkraut is nicely balanced by the fruitiness of the wine. (9.5/FLB)

Pork Tenderloin with Sauerkraut:

-2 lb pork tenderloin
-2-3 cups sauerkraut
-2 tsp Bavarian spices
-1 cup Riesling
-Salt and pepper

-rub the pork with the Bavarian spices, salt and pepper
-place in a crock pot and cover with sauerkraut and wine
-cook on low for 6-8 hours until tender
-serve with a nice baked potato and some steamed Brussels spouts

Lamoreaux Landing 2005 Chardonay

As I have stated here before, I am not a fan of over oaked chardonnay. That said the chardonnay offering from Lamoreaux Landing was surprisingly approachable. The oak was used in such a judicious manner so as to add to the overall complexity of the wine instead of detracting from it, which is many times the case with oaky chardonnays.

This wine is brimming with a bright lemon acidity that blends well with the vanilla flavors cast off by the oak barrels producing a pronounced lemon cream nose. Aromas of crisp green apple can also be detected along with the lemon cream. This attractive nose leads to a palette that begins with green apple and tropical fruit and finishes with butter and vanilla. These tastes are all tied together nicely with a background of perfectly balanced acidity and complemented by a nice presence of minerality.

The full bodieness of this wine along with its pronounced flavors lends itself to pairing well with more full flavored dishes. It will go well with any meal from pasta to light game or chicken. When paired with a nice bowl of saffron rice and the Lebanese grilled chicken recipe below, this chardonnay was a delight. The recipe is spicy however not to terribly hot and it integrates well with the tropical fruit in the wine. (8.5/FLB)

Lebanese Grilled Chicken

Marinade:

-1 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, trimmed of any fat and cut into cubes
-1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
-1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
-1/2 small onion, grated
-1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cinnamon
-1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom seeds (from about 20 pods)
-1/2 teaspoon dried or fresh thyme leaves
-Salt and freshly ground black pepper
-1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds, optional
-1/2 teaspoon Baharat, recipe follows
-1/4 teaspoon paprika 10 (10-inch) wooden or metal skewers

Baharat:
-3 tsp cup black peppercorns
-3 tsp cup allspice berries
-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
-1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

-Grind the peppercorns and allspice together and blend with the cinnamon and nutmeg. Store the mixture in a jar in your spice rack, away from sunlight. It will lose pungency as time goes by, but, properly stored, it will be good for many months.

-Marinate the chicken cubes in a glass or ceramic bowl or pan with the olive oil, lemon juice, onion, cinnamon, cardamom, thyme, salt, pepper, cumin, if using, Baharat, and paprika for 6 hours, covered, in the refrigerator, turning the cubes occasionally.
-Preheat a gas grill for 15 minutes on high or prepare a hot charcoal fire.
-Skewer the chicken cubes so they touch each other but do not press against each other. If possible, use a skewer rack so the chicken grills without touching the grilling grate.
-Grill until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes, turning frequently. Serve hot.